Attic Insulation Calculator — R-Value, Inches & Bags

Climate zones 1–8 mapped to R-49/R-60 attic targets, bag math included.

Quick answer: Enter attic size, current depth and climate zone to get target R-value, extra inches needed and blown-cellulose bag count before you rent a blower.

📏 Measure twice: probe the existing depth with a ruler at 3–4 spots and average — attics are never level. And air-seal top plates and penetrations BEFORE blowing; insulation slows heat, it does not stop air.

How to use

  1. Measure attic area (footprint in sq ft) and average existing insulation depth.
  2. Pick your climate zone — or override the target R-value yourself.
  3. Choose your material: batts, blown fiberglass, blown cellulose or closed-cell foam.
  4. Read extra inches needed, the R you are adding, and an approximate bag count.

About this tool

Most American attics are under-insulated, and the fix is cheaper than people fear — but only if you measure what is actually up there. Enter attic area and the current depth of insulation in inches, pick your climate zone, and this calculator sets the attic target (R-49 for zones 1–3, R-60 for zones 4–8, overridable), converts it to inches for your chosen material — fiberglass batts, blown fiberglass, blown cellulose or closed-cell spray foam — and reports exactly how many more inches you need. Blown cellulose gets an approximate bag count; spray foam comes out in board feet. Air-seal first: caulk top plates and penetrations before blowing anything, because insulation slows heat but does not stop air leaks. DIY-friendly math, entirely in your browser.

FAQ

How much does attic insulation cost?
DIY blown cellulose typically lands at $0.60–$1.50 per sq ft in materials; a 1,000 sq ft attic is roughly $600–$1,500 in bags. Professionally installed blown insulation runs $1.50–$3.50 per sq ft. Big-box stores often lend the blowing machine free with a bag minimum — ask before renting.
What R-value should my attic have?
DOE-style guidance: zones 1–3 want about R-49, zones 4–8 want R-49 to R-60, with R-60 the sensible default for cold climates. The zone picker here maps that for you, and the override field lets you follow a local energy code or an auditor recommendation instead.
How many inches is R-49?
It depends on the material: blown cellulose at R-3.2/in needs about 15.3 inches; fiberglass batts at R-3.1 need about 15.8; blown fiberglass at R-2.5 needs nearly 20 inches. This is why inches and R-value are not interchangeable — the calculator converts in both directions.
Can I put new insulation over the old?
Yes — loose fill over loose fill, or unfaced batts over loose fill, works if the old insulation is dry and unmolded. Never lay a paper-faced batt face-down over loose fill: the facing traps moisture. And check before burying recessed light housings or knob-and-tube wiring — both are fire risks.
Should I air-seal before insulating?
Always. Caulk or foam the top plates, wire and pipe penetrations, and bath-fan housings first — insulation slows heat flow but does not stop air leaking through it. Air-sealing plus insulation is the best-value energy upgrade in most homes, and it costs pennies before blow day.

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